Derrs - last minute!

Gear: 7'6 Conditions: Glassy/ NE. <1.5m swell. High tide I had Friday off and Dad said he would join me for a surf. We went to check out Trigg, decided it was shit. Couldn't get excited about it. Both were thinking a cup of coffee instead when Dad suggested we could go to Derrs if the wind was gonna stay light. So we drove home to swap cars to then drive back, past Trigg to Derrs. When we arrived there were 3 people there, one just getting out. Then it was just Dad and I for about an hour til another guy came in just before we left. Nice shape. I caught a head high right!! Lots of lefts and another reaaally nice right that opened out into a nice rideable/cutback-able shoulder. A few extreme dismounts in the shallows today. I also learned the hard way that you can in no way milk these rides. When you see an out, you've got to take it. Had to have your exit strategy ready. I managed to bruise my toes on rocks on one ride. Caught it late and so it broke and the foam jetted me straight at the beach (which was not very far away). Got a bit tumbled on the rocks. They are feeling better now after a few days. I had some good rights today which is great after last session where I was a bit unco and overbalancing. One left was so fast that I had trouble staying attached to my board! I needed to be taking off closer to the peaks today, but wasn't really pushing myself as much. So next time I need to be a 'bit more courageous', as Dad put it :) Such a terrific day!!! The sun was shining...unspoilt beauty basically all to ourselves. So lucky.

Lancelin Girls' Surf Safari

We had a great time up in Lancelin. Kristy and I headed up Friday arvo, arriving around 3:30. The accommodation was so dodgy but added to the flavour of the weekend. We made burritos for the girls - who arrived around 7pm - without any taco seasoning. Somehow that didn't make the journey from our shopping basket to our plastic bag!

Sleeping Friday night was a challenge as the tavern - next to our room - closed at midnight, spewing forth all the bogans in Lancelin and all of the bikies that had evidently booked the room next to ours. They were yelling and swearing and revving their cars until about 3am.

Saturday morning the 'light offshore' breeze that was forecast was more of a moderate offshore breeze, ruffling the palm trees and blowing huge streams off the waves. Packed up and convoy to the beach. The waves out the back were pretty impressive! Nice shape, most about head high and pretty hollow. We weren't quite ready for that. Unfortunately the shallower water didn't offer much of an alternative. We struggled to find some reforms and I resorted to taking some photos.

After a quick relocation to a spot further down the beach we had a bit more luck and some fun rides. Brunch was a fabulous affair - bbq brekkie in the park. The esky and the beers came with us and it was well earned!

After a nap in the arvo we headed back down the beach for an arvo session. The swell had dropped but the combination of onshore wind and incoming tide made it pretty difficult to sit anywhere useful. After an hour or so paddling through the 'minestrone' we went back for showers and some girl time before heading out to dinner.

No girls weekend would be complete without a late night car ride in search of sweets. We finished dinner at the ripe old time of 8pm. By then all the shops were closed and the only dessert option open to us was an ice cream from the pizza shop. I manage to not get us killed on the trip back along the street to Casa del Femme. Some late night hilarity followed by a restful night sans bikies...

Sunday morning was a totally different story. We were a bit slow getting up after a few drinks and a long day, but managed to pack ourselves and everything else in our cars before heading to the beach. Glassy, still, fabulous peaks out the back and the swell had dropped. Heaven. We got out the back and stayed there. I caught some of the biggest waves I've ridden. Out next to the boys. I found that we had a bit of trouble catching them so we moved to a different peak - let the guys have this one to themselves. I got a few nice rides and some cool drops. Nat managed to get herself some big waves out the back and also had a go on my board.

This was a morning I didn't want to end. Unfortunately the wind came in gradually as did the tide and it was time to go. Lunch at the bakery before making the trek back to Perth.

Check out more photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/hannah.katarski/LancelinGirlsSurfSafari#

Shaping up

We head to Gnaraloo in about 5 weeks! Were trying to up our fitness a bit before we go and have been swimming a couple of times a week. I'm dubious as to whether the fitness benefits are higher than the chlorine poisoning we get from the experience. We went to Derrs on Saturday arvo and it was magic. Only the three of us. No one else to be seen. The sun was shining. The swell was small, but plenty big enough for James and I. We managed to catch heaps more waves than we have here in the past. Managed some rollercoasting along a left and got my rights sorted out eventually, when I started bending my knees again!! The drops were pretty exciting. Great day!!

Surf Beach Photos!

Jo took some pictures when we were down last weekend and here are some of the better shots. I thought they'd all be average - we now have a million pics of ourselves riding ankle high foam - it is so great to have some shots riding on the face AND some waves that allow us to do as such. frontside!! Nice size, this one. (above)

High five!

One of my faves. (Below)

A very happy girl - Striking a pose.

Angling right.

Surf Beach 2

We had such a great time yesterday that we headed down again on Monday as it was a public holiday. We took Kristy and met Rich and Nat there. What a fun day! With the good conditions everyone took a step up. James has been squatting more giving him more style and balance to work from. Kristy caught some green waves and Nat worked her butt off paddling for green waves and catching them. I had a go on Richard's fish, which was a real challenge. The standing was ok, but catching the waves was reeeeeally hard. Harder, I think, than Leeann's tiny toothpick of a board. We're thinking it needs some size to make it easier, plus being comfortable with a later take off. Richard got on my board and straight away had a really nice line along the face. Board choice makes such a big difference. This day had Nat and Kristy both talking about getting glass boards. The stoke. This weekend I'm heading off early on Friday and we're doing a girl's surfing safari to Lancelin. We're all very excited.

Shape at Surf Beach!!

James and I took Jo to Surf Beach on the long weekend. I wasn't that enthusiastic about the beach - except that I'd be getting wet - as we've had terrible shape the last little while. James even managed to snap one of our foam boards at Scarborough. Very, very straight. I had just finished telling Jo about our usual conditions - no face, close outs, dumpy - when we crested the sand dune to look out over peak after peak running down the beach. James and I were in heaven and it took us a little while to realise how good it was. Jo did great. She hadn't surfed for a few months but was popping up nice and fast and having no trouble at all on the white water and caught some green ones too. Having her there made me realise just how much local knowledge counts for. James and I have spent hours and hours at this beach, and so you come to expect certain things from it. You know how fast the waves form, there shape, where the sand banks form. Not knowing this stuff can really knock your confidence - as we found when we were in Queensland. We were talking about this session for the rest of the day. Best surf James has had on months and I'm sure I had some of the best waves I've ever caught. I was able to paddle on a real angle, because the waves had shape. I think we were getting plenty at about hip height AND I got to work with the face. I had some nice deep bottom turns and managed to get carving along the face - little top turns linked with bottom burns. We just have NOT had these conditions to work with and it was like a pile of things that I've been learning and thinking all fell into place finally and my body knew what to do. Jo took some shots of us, so hopefully there's a few in there where we look like we're surfing ;) but regardless, it felt amazing!

Long absence

I'm good at leaving this blog for ages. That has partly been because I haven't been up to much. Well, I have. But it's all here: http://www.crystalvoyager.blogspot.com/ I made these over the last week or so. I've been wanting to get more into some mixed media and in particular, books, but just don't quite know where to start. These were small, simple and fun. My goal was to introduce layers as I tend to work quite flat. They are 4 x 4 inches.

Denmark Easter Surf Trip

Easter was great fun. time with the family trying out the new tent and sleeping bags and stuff. Really, we were pretty lucky with the surf. There were some waves and there was some shape. Unfortunately I think we were spoilt the first time we came here and haven't seen it as good since. I'm sure if we were locals we would have, but driving the 5 hours down there every so often is all we can manage. Friday we spent 2.5 hours in the water, then I went back in the arvo - although it was choppy and sucky. Saturday was wiiinnnnndy, so no surf. Sunday was still massively onshore with chunky swell, but we took the kids down to the beach and hoped in once they were bored - all of 5 minutes. Monday I put my foot down and sad we were surfing before the 5 hour drive back. So that I felt like i'd done something with the day. The sun was shining, there was no excuse. There were some really good people down there. Of particular note was one girl of about 15 who rode a longboard. She was so graceful and was usually in just the right spot. Looked like so much fun. She was working on noseriding and had some pretty impressive stacks, always with a smile on her face. The waves down there are so nice and crumbly. You rarely had to go under them. Just keep paddling up and through to get out the back. Looking at the photos of me, I fell like a need a bit of something. James and Dale were both really good to take heaps of shots, so I could see what I was doing and where I was in relation to the wave. A hard thing to do when you're in it. the main thing I think I need to work on is timing and placement. Where I am when the wave gets to me. Probably one of the harder things about surfing, I guess. And only time in the water will help. Years. :) I got years.

I had heaps of fun, but would have liked to have taken a few more big ones. The line up was so crowded, I didnt want to hassle or be in the way. It was just too hard to try and take off with 6 people sitting in front of you...One of the bigger waves I paddled onto, in between crowded moments.

Apparently not the best shape from looking at this shot.

I really need to commit! It doesn't look that scary from here and standing would have been fine.

So. I haven't quite sussed the longboard. Seemed to nosedive before I could stand, no matter what I was doing. So next time I take it out I'm gonna get right back. Ppl out there seemed to have their feet right on the tail. So we'll see. I also think I need to paddle harder. Maybe not all the time, but there are waves where I guess I was in the pocket, but didn't catch the wave fast enough, so it overtook me.

Too slow...Generally, it was difficult to get on the face, but then I also think that was the conditions. I'm happy with the size of some of the 'close-out' stuff that I've still managed to make.Nice size, just not the shape. So good and crumbly though. Never thought I'd be saying I want something more hollow. Should I be paddling on more of an angle? I'm happy with some of these shots, seeing how I'm positioning myself and leaning, I think, is really good. Packed line-up Going right :)

I'd love to get some feedback from someone who knows what they're doing re stand up. This all seems a bit anal, and next time I go out, I just plan to have fun and be in the moment. But a bit of reflection so I can see what to work on has been good too. Aloha.

Derrs 2

Gear: 7'6 & 3/2 boots Conditions: Moderate SE - S. Overcast. 1.25m swell High tide Today was a big day. An hour drive to Derrs and because we didn't have a 4WD today, we had to park and carry our boards up the beach about 20 mins. Dad and I surfed for about 3 hours before making the trip home. Excellent hamburger for lunch! Fat, big waves until the Southerlies kicked in which reduced it all to chop. Paddled onto some big stuff (for me) Made the drop on quite a number. Even got some rollercoasting/pumping happening up the face. Each ride ended really close in on the rocks, so I got good at my kamikaze dismounts. The biggest challenge today was judging the waves/not waves and getting in the right spot to catch them. I'm so used to smaller, steeper waves that form a lot quicker and break a lot quicker. So watching the big ones rolling through, your judgement is telling you that they're going to break on you. In fact they're not. They're forming slower and crumbling. Takes a bit of getting used to. I had a few that I caught but just fell off the back of. Just looked like a freefall if I stayed with it. Next time gotta bite the bullet and do it. It was ok at Sandtracks and nosediving has been painfree anyway. Gotta look down the line NOT at the chasm below me ;P

Summer's End

03/21/2009 - Sandtracks You Gear: Rashie, then wettie, 7'6 Conditions: glassy, still, fun. 2.5m swell. Low tide - ).66m It was a slow start to the day. James and I met Leeann and Tanya at Sandtracks, but nothing was breaking, so we checked out Cottesloe. Heaps of people out on ankle high waves. Didn't seem worth the hassle with the crowds. So I took James home then came back to Sandtracks to have a paddle with the girls. Met them on the beach as they were heading back to their cars. I was in a rush to catch them before they got out so I only put on a rashie over my bikinis. Initially went out on my own for a paddle but ended up catching some good waves. About 20 people out, scattered all the way up from the groyne to the carpark entrance. I managed to pick a good spot in near the groyne off on my own. Only 3 other guys sort of near me, and each time the sets came through I was in the right spot. Nice shape, not too steep. Got about 4 rides. By this time I was so cold. i paddled back, put on my wettie and them came out again. By this time the tide was up and the waves weren't breaking the same. All in all I got about 5-6 waves. 1 right with a nice wall. A big left! Looked a bit scarey but I went anyway and it was awes. :) I usually have trouble when they've already started breaking on one side. I angle too much and just get flipped. Today I had it sussed, was angling just the slightest bit and it was fine. Caught the wave and the drop wasn't too steep. There was something different about the big one and I realised later that I was riding high up on the face! That's what felt different. So next time, if the ride is long enough, that's when I'll be able to bottom turn and hopefully come back up the face. The right I had was great because I could see the wave walling up in front of me - decent size - and I was looking down the line. The best feeling.

Fun day!!

Sunday we headed down to Surf Beach. The day before we'd tried Scarborough but there was NOTHING! 50 ppl out at Trigg point trying to catch ankle high waves. The rest of the coast was FLAT. So we met Leeann, Kristy, Richard and Nat down there. James was on call, so he stayed on the beach and filmed us surfing. It was a great day. Everyone was doing so well and having heaps of fun. Nat caught her first decent green wave - which Leeann, Kristy and I were also on. :P Leeann and Nat were both angling really nicely. AND Kristy stood on at least two of her waves!! Great day. To top it off. We have some of the memories on film. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W9as8t0MZ4 And proof that I was there!

Nat's green wave!

Same wave..still going

Triumph!

Kristy standing It was really satisfying seeing everyone doing so well. Lots of laughs and great memories.

Avalon 2009

01/26/2009 - Avalon Point You Gear: 7'6 board. New reef boots Conditions: Light W/SW (>10knots) Swell: 1.8-2.6m Tide: 0.4-0.5m Per/Dir 13 SW Seas:1-1.5m This was before the Gold Coast, but I forgot to blog it and it was such a memorable day!! We were were all so knotted from the last 2 days, surfing and sailing, but today was great! We picked Richard up as he's working on his car at the moment and raced the seabreeze down to Mandurah. It was windy, but the waves were still breaking nicely. Easy paddle out to the reef. Nice breaks between waves to paddle back out. Some nice hip to waist high waves and a fun crowd. They looked big as they came towards you, but then they just crumbled. I don't think you could have gotten dumped by them! Due to where they were breaking, the waves weren't super long, but still really nice drops and a decent ride. Felt like I was actually up to the conditions and able to make the most of them, which is really fulfilling!! James went in after a little while, being tired from the day before, Rich and I stayed out a little longer with the longboarders. Can't wait to take the mal out next time. While we were out 2 dolphins swam past not 2 metres away. Absolutely magic! We're heading down to Denmark again this Easter and hoping for nice shape like last Easter - this year we'll be out the back with any luck. In June we'll be going up to Gnaraloo with my Dad, Uncle and cousins!! Scary but really exciting!