Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Derrs - last minute!
Gear: 7'6 Conditions: Glassy/ NE. <1.5m swell. High tide I had Friday off and Dad said he would join me for a surf. We went to check out Trigg, decided it was shit. Couldn't get excited about it. Both were thinking a cup of coffee instead when Dad suggested we could go to Derrs if the wind was gonna stay light. So we drove home to swap cars to then drive back, past Trigg to Derrs. When we arrived there were 3 people there, one just getting out. Then it was just Dad and I for about an hour til another guy came in just before we left. Nice shape. I caught a head high right!! Lots of lefts and another reaaally nice right that opened out into a nice rideable/cutback-able shoulder. A few extreme dismounts in the shallows today. I also learned the hard way that you can in no way milk these rides. When you see an out, you've got to take it. Had to have your exit strategy ready. I managed to bruise my toes on rocks on one ride. Caught it late and so it broke and the foam jetted me straight at the beach (which was not very far away). Got a bit tumbled on the rocks. They are feeling better now after a few days. I had some good rights today which is great after last session where I was a bit unco and overbalancing. One left was so fast that I had trouble staying attached to my board! I needed to be taking off closer to the peaks today, but wasn't really pushing myself as much. So next time I need to be a 'bit more courageous', as Dad put it :) Such a terrific day!!! The sun was shining...unspoilt beauty basically all to ourselves. So lucky.