Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Shape at Surf Beach!!
James and I took Jo to Surf Beach on the long weekend. I wasn't that enthusiastic about the beach - except that I'd be getting wet - as we've had terrible shape the last little while. James even managed to snap one of our foam boards at Scarborough. Very, very straight. I had just finished telling Jo about our usual conditions - no face, close outs, dumpy - when we crested the sand dune to look out over peak after peak running down the beach. James and I were in heaven and it took us a little while to realise how good it was. Jo did great. She hadn't surfed for a few months but was popping up nice and fast and having no trouble at all on the white water and caught some green ones too. Having her there made me realise just how much local knowledge counts for. James and I have spent hours and hours at this beach, and so you come to expect certain things from it. You know how fast the waves form, there shape, where the sand banks form. Not knowing this stuff can really knock your confidence - as we found when we were in Queensland. We were talking about this session for the rest of the day. Best surf James has had on months and I'm sure I had some of the best waves I've ever caught. I was able to paddle on a real angle, because the waves had shape. I think we were getting plenty at about hip height AND I got to work with the face. I had some nice deep bottom turns and managed to get carving along the face - little top turns linked with bottom burns. We just have NOT had these conditions to work with and it was like a pile of things that I've been learning and thinking all fell into place finally and my body knew what to do. Jo took some shots of us, so hopefully there's a few in there where we look like we're surfing ;) but regardless, it felt amazing!