Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Derrs 2

Gear: 7'6 & 3/2 boots Conditions: Moderate SE - S. Overcast. 1.25m swell High tide Today was a big day. An hour drive to Derrs and because we didn't have a 4WD today, we had to park and carry our boards up the beach about 20 mins. Dad and I surfed for about 3 hours before making the trip home. Excellent hamburger for lunch! Fat, big waves until the Southerlies kicked in which reduced it all to chop. Paddled onto some big stuff (for me) Made the drop on quite a number. Even got some rollercoasting/pumping happening up the face. Each ride ended really close in on the rocks, so I got good at my kamikaze dismounts. The biggest challenge today was judging the waves/not waves and getting in the right spot to catch them. I'm so used to smaller, steeper waves that form a lot quicker and break a lot quicker. So watching the big ones rolling through, your judgement is telling you that they're going to break on you. In fact they're not. They're forming slower and crumbling. Takes a bit of getting used to. I had a few that I caught but just fell off the back of. Just looked like a freefall if I stayed with it. Next time gotta bite the bullet and do it. It was ok at Sandtracks and nosediving has been painfree anyway. Gotta look down the line NOT at the chasm below me ;P

No comments: