Sunday, March 22, 2009
03/21/2009 - Sandtracks You Gear: Rashie, then wettie, 7'6 Conditions: glassy, still, fun. 2.5m swell. Low tide - ).66m It was a slow start to the day. James and I met Leeann and Tanya at Sandtracks, but nothing was breaking, so we checked out Cottesloe. Heaps of people out on ankle high waves. Didn't seem worth the hassle with the crowds. So I took James home then came back to Sandtracks to have a paddle with the girls. Met them on the beach as they were heading back to their cars. I was in a rush to catch them before they got out so I only put on a rashie over my bikinis. Initially went out on my own for a paddle but ended up catching some good waves. About 20 people out, scattered all the way up from the groyne to the carpark entrance. I managed to pick a good spot in near the groyne off on my own. Only 3 other guys sort of near me, and each time the sets came through I was in the right spot. Nice shape, not too steep. Got about 4 rides. By this time I was so cold. i paddled back, put on my wettie and them came out again. By this time the tide was up and the waves weren't breaking the same. All in all I got about 5-6 waves. 1 right with a nice wall. A big left! Looked a bit scarey but I went anyway and it was awes. :) I usually have trouble when they've already started breaking on one side. I angle too much and just get flipped. Today I had it sussed, was angling just the slightest bit and it was fine. Caught the wave and the drop wasn't too steep. There was something different about the big one and I realised later that I was riding high up on the face! That's what felt different. So next time, if the ride is long enough, that's when I'll be able to bottom turn and hopefully come back up the face. The right I had was great because I could see the wave walling up in front of me - decent size - and I was looking down the line. The best feeling.