Thursday, September 6, 2012

Bali Chillhouse Surf Retreat - day 6

A nice, slightly later start today at 8. Our guides did the dawn patrol ( at 6) to suss out the conditions. So we headed strait back to Kedungu at 8. We got the van off the road and onto the grass and only sustained the loss of the ladder. Total transformation from yesterday. Bigger with two clear peaks to play on. This was so. Much. Fun. Much bigger than the other days with fat, long waves. Quite crowded at first which was pretty alarming given the size. Lots of beginners, so I had a few pushed straight out in front of me on a head high+ wave. Worrying to navigate when they are riding down on their guts and you're trying to pick a high line. Invariably you end up pulling off or straightening up and running the gauntlet of people on the inside. It was still a great session. The crowd dropped off and I caught some bombs! I had about four waves that lined up really nicely, so I got loads of turns on each one - even a hang 5 - and road the, almost all the way to the beach. Tania and Kristy also caught some huge waves. It was a great day for progress with both the girls getting some great trimming and turning going on. James sat on the inside and exhausted himself with the reforms, impressing the guides with his ability to surf the shorey on a longboard.

Back up the hill. Past the tile factories. Past the traffic lights that don't work. Past the poster of two guys holding hands that I still haven't figured out. Past the kids coming home from school for lunch.

Birthday pancake today. It was very good. We then had our video coaching session, which was both hilarious and very useful. So we have things to work on tomorrow as well as good laughs.

We taxi'd into good ol Legian this afternoon. Tania and I basically bought out a bead shop. We can probably start our own. Kristy finally found the handbag, Tania found more dresses and I bought too many batik bags. We finished the trip with massages at Carla Spa before burning back home.

Dinner was very nice, traditional Balinese food, served on the table the way families eat. They were lovely to bring me out a chocolate cake and everyone sang happy birthday. Aww :] It has been such a terrific day! I couldn't have hoped for a better way to spend the first day of my 30s!
Kristy going left!
In Legian...
Kedungu rush hour
Nicest board spray!
The crew
Little Jon and I

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