Friday, July 24, 2009


2.5m @ Rotto. Light offshore. Tide: 1.0m I was hardly isolated out there today! Minimum 20 people in the water at any time made for some interesting manoeuvres when you realised that there were people infront/behind/under you! I had the best surf I’ve had in aaaaages! I caught 7 waves while I was out and was proud of so many things. My first wave was a warm up one from the left side. Broke pretty quick and I cut back to go right. Took a little while to adjust to what was catchable on the high tide. Nice and deep though. The second I caught from the right edge, made the drop on my knees, but once I was up managed to catch up, get around the section and get into the pocket! Sweet! My third wave was a head high left!!! I whooped and hollered the whole way along and couldn’t stop laughing when I was paddling back out. It was a sneaky wide set wave so I caught it on the inside and everyone else on it was further down the line. Amazing feeling seeing it walling up next to me! The fourth was a little bit interesting, I was looking to go left and about 5 of us all caught it. The guy next to me was going right! So I managed to cut back and not run into him, and then got a really nice ride. After that I moved further across to the left. Was sick of catching waves and not being able to go because someone had already got it or I was about to kamikaze in to someone waiting further in. Sitting on the left was great as most people were after the rights and there were lots coming through unridden. I pretty quickly caught three. The first had about 6 people on it. The chick in front of me did and amazing bottom turn from high up on the face and then flicked off. As we were paddling she said ‘yep yep!’ and I’m not sure if she was saying ’yep I’ve got it’ or ‘yep you’ve got it’. Either way I had right of way and as everyone seemed to be on it, I guess it was ok. The next one I had to myself. I angled really sharply as soon as I stood up which was awes. The last one I caught a bit late and made the drop on my knees but finished with some great carving then flicking off the back. I felt like I was surfing today!! It’s been a while since I’ve had a decent fix and today was it! Gnaraloo was full on and Tuesday at Sandtracks just felt wrong, so it was great to be chilled. No pressure, no worries, just fun. I wasn’t looking at my feet, I was looking down the line. I didn’t nose dive at all. I was managing to catch them ok and the longboard felt really good! I met Greer today. She’s the Wahine rep for the Cottesloe Longboarders’ Club. Membership opens December, so hopefully James and I will join up then. She’s really nice and about my age. She’s been surfing about as long as us, went to Bali earlier in the year and is pretty keen which is awesome! I also had a few chats with some of the guys who also belong to it. They were pretty cruisey and happy to have a joke. Gonna check out the Club Round on Sunday!

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