Sunday, November 2, 2008


Yesterday was an epic day. We went up to Derrs, near Two Rocks in Dad's 4WD. We surfed for about 2 and a half hours. James and I both caught about 2 waves. It was really good all the same. They are probably the biggest waves I've ever ridden! Plus I paddled onto them myself and rode them all the way along, steering around sections and trimming! Very very rewarding. Catching the waves was a big challenge. Because they are bigger, they look different when they are going to be rideable. They form and break differently. It took a little while to figure out which ones were going to be worth paddling for. Still haven't fully got it. Also after a year of surfing, I'm still not quite strong enough to catch everything I paddle for. Dad pointed out that we do keep getting stronger, but we are also stepping up in quality of wave that we are going for - so it requires more from us. So something to keep working on. I also realised, I think, why sometimes the wave feels very easy and your just cruise down the face, and other times it feels like you're staring down a precipice. The second sensation comes from catching the wave but really late. You haven't been moving fast enough to be in the right position so the wave has jacked up before you were properly riding it. Therefore it becomes steep and treacherous on a long board. Hopefully with increased paddle strength, this won't happen as much. I found out about Eskimo rolls today too. I knew what you did from above the water, but no one had really explained what you do under the water. I thought you were meant to stay horizontal, next to your board, but dad was saying that you hold on really tight, but actually hang down below your board. Makes sense. Worked once. Not so well the next time. Will need to work on this seeing as duck diving the 7'6" isn't likely to happen... I also saw dad doing this thing where he'd paddle into position, stop, then launch onto the wave. Given that James and I have to paddle for ages before the wave even gets to us, this didn't make sense. But he explained that, provided you are in the right spot, and know where that is, you can get the momentum by sinking your board, then just at the right moment letting it shoot up, frog kick and add in a few last minute paddles and your away!! Something he will teach us next time. Amazing that I have never heard of or noticed this technique until yesterday. :) The break is a reef break, but really nice! Not all covered in god knows what. Very flat rock with some weed and a fair bit of sand. Much nicer than Avalon or Cottesloe. After a while we were less freaked about skewering ourselves on it, which helped. Next time I'm out at Sandtracks, provided there's something breaking out the back, that's where I need to be. James said I should remember what I was catching yesterday to keep it in perspective. Apparently I paddled onto some big ones yesterday (for me) but just didn't quite catch them. C'mon paddle strength!!!

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