Monday, December 22, 2008
Looks like I won't have my board back before Christmas. With any luck I can find something else awesome soon. Went down to Surf Beach yesterday, just James and I. I hired a 7' softboard and James used his board. I got some great rides! The soft board totally takes away the fear of nosediving. You're not worrying about it being hard or damaging it. Tried to paddle onto some biggish stuff and close outs. Stood straight away and didn't nose dive. Caught one wave out the back and rode it all the way in on the angle, along the reform, pretty much to the beach. Had one of the instructors on the shore whooping me. Felt good to see someone else stoked for you. :) I also had another cool ride where I was crouched right up the front with one foot on the nose. Such a classy ride! And to top it off, the wave sectioned off and broke on me. Washed me right off the board. :P A perfect dismount. I only had the board for an hour so returned it and then used James' while he played on Errol (his name for the new foamie). He had an excellent time throwing himself and ridiculous waves without a fear. Even managed to stand up on it. By this time the tide had come up and it was getting harder to catch the reforms. Stuff out the back was all closing out and huge. Did manage to get a few more nice little rides on James' board. Managed to transfer the 'just bloody stand' philosophy to the fibreglass board. Feels good to mix it up. Swell got up to 2m off Rottnest today and was probably around 1.8m when we were out. Next thing I need to work on is rollercoasting... As well as keeping with the stand up - weight on the back-and you'll be fine thing.