We didn't take any shots on the good days, but these pics are the first day we took out the new boards. Tiny waves. Difficult to catch. But fun. :]Yesterday I had a better handle on things. Caught heaps of waves. A couple of really nice ones. New Year's Day today and it was a bit hard getting up in the morning. The forecast showed light offshore winds down at Secret Harbour and that was enough to motivate us. Eventually. It was an excellent day! We surfed for three hours until we got too hungry and had to come in. Some nice sized waves first thing with some long-ish rides. Got smaller as the day progressed. Still great fun. A good opportunity to try all the different boards in the same conditions. The foam ones actually go well when the waves are decent. James was having a great time trying tricks on the pink foamie: head stands, giving thanks to the ocean, crane kicks... Kept himself amused. I managed to remember to try something new and got the beginnings of some rollercoasting happening before the wave died. A really satisfying day. Sometimes you feel so blessed to be a surfer. I see so many beautiful things. Sometimes it might be that you miss a wave, but instead you get to see into it - a beautiful, peeling wave. Or being out when its so glassy that you see the bottom magnified through the wave. I'm a lucky girl.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
It's been an interesting week or so. Surf has been crap and I haven't had my board. In desperation I bought us a couple of foam boards to use. Save my fins on my fibreglass board when its low tide and there's not much on offer anyway. The pink one is 6'10 and the blue, 6'6. A little but shorter, but we're getting used to them! The main thing is catching the waves. A number of trips to Scarborough have proved frustrating. No shape. no oompf. I was beginning to think that the new boards were no good. Turns out it was just the conditions. After Christmas there was a fatal shark attack just south of Perth. Pretty sobering. I was peacefully oblivious til a mate told me about it. Spent a bit of time talking about it with my dad, his mate, some friends... Its such a freak thing to happen and I think it scares us all on a really primal level. We all know there's a risk to being in the ocean, but its just not one we like to be reminded of. Most people I know have still been going to the beach, but every shadow makes you look twice and you're constantly aware of how far out you go. Soon the paranoia will fade again. The last two days we've had some great fun down at Sandtrax. it's been small, but some waves have actually been breaking - with shape! the first day I was having real trouble actually getting on the waves with the 6'6. Combination of not paddling hard enough and the waves not having much push, plus not wanting to catch the waves a metre from the shore. ended up with two really nice righthanders, zipping along the face. I learned that I can't nose ride this board. :D