Winter swell is on its way!

My little man is seven weeks old and I enjoyed a fantastic surf today, thanks to his grandma minding him.

Slowly getting my surfing fitness back. All that baby holding is great for muscles, but not so useful for that burst paddling. My first time back in the water was when Rowan was three weeks old. I didn't catch anything, wrong board on top of everything else, but it is now great to know that I haven't forgotten everything. The turns and balance are still right there. Pop ups just happen and the fitness will come. I'd love to be doing yoga again, but turns out you don't have oodles of spare time with a newborn. Need to find a mums and bubs yoga. I could try do some at home but it just doesn't end up being a priority in the five minutes you have to yourself to race around and try to do 20 things. 

Winter wonderland - Leighton

So since four weeks ago i have actually caught some waves. I've been out at Cove a few times, Isos and close out Scarborough. 

Today we actually had enough swell for decent waves all along Cott. Even saw a rogue one break at the artificial reef on the way there. At Isos, there were a few peaks to spread out the crowd. 

My first wave had some nice wall to it - enough to fit in some roller-coasting - and i rode it all the way to shore! Number 2 was a sneaky set wave that broke south of the usual peak. I was so stoked as i normally misjudge the wave and paddle too far out, then miss it. Or get cleaned up. I was the only one even close and i figured i had to go for it even though it looked a little late. I caught it and it was epic! Decent drop, a big bottom turn - hand in the wall, streaking along the face, cut back, another bt, and a fantastic dismount when the wave closed out onto the approaching backwash haha. Best wave I've ad in Perth for a year at least. I love random lefts at Isos!

Two weeks ago at tiny Cottesloe with my 9'2

Third wave was another sneaky left. Not as big, but bloody fun. Oh waves with walls: It's all a girl wants.