I
loved how everything was focussed around the beach. There was such a
great vibe. The streets are laid out so nicely and then the harbour and
ferries are parallel
to the beach, so you’re on this weird little peninsula. The lay of the
land is very different from
Perth. So much rock. Cliffs and juttings and outcrops and heads. So of course that makes for some pretty cool surf spots. In
Perth you can pretty much walk in a straight
line along the beach from one end of the metro area to the other. And
there aren’t really cliffs… just sand.
There’s a boardwalk from Manly all the way around to
Cabbage
Tree Park and Shelley Beach. The waves
sometimes break across it and you walk past the in-ocean swimming pool,
cafes, diving lessons, a calm swimming beach, two surf breaks, and
people paddling
their surfboards between one spot and the next. There is a natural
viewing/amphitheatre where you can watch the surfers in line with where
they take off. Then, 90 degrees to your right, there’s another wave,
breaking at a totally different angle!
In
typical fashion we brought swell with us and the beaches were actually
closed for two of the three and half days that we were there. There was a
cyclone off the
north east coast and the waves got a bit ugly with messy winds.
Christmas
day, our first morning there, was perfect, but thinking we had all the
time in the world, we had coffees and took in the sights. By lunchtime,
when we
decided to go hire a board, the wind had come howling in (for the first
time in a week) and it was all down hill from there!
Boxing Day we went out on the Harbour and watched the start of the
Sydney to Hobart Yacht race from a boat.
I
promised myself that I would go out for a surf before we left. Sure
enough, the morning that we had to check out was a lot more orderly and
smaller. Of course,
the board hire places open office hours and we needed to be out by
10am. So I took out my Dad’s kneeboard! He takes his board with him as
people don’t rent kneeboards! This was a great experience. It’s 6’2 and
has a very spooned (kneeboard, ugh) shape. It
goes really nicely as a stand up board – apart from having to stand
across knee dibits. Plus it duck dives well – and I sure was doing a lot
of that. More than catching waves.
The
water was SO clear out there and I got such a kick out of sitting out
there (and from being able to see our balcony from the line up). It was
also pretty amazing
to see the stereotyped Australian summer surfing culture. Perth is so flat in summer with the protection from the outer reef. But
Sydney needs hardly any swell to have waves.
Imagine that! Surfing decent waves regularly in summer! Warm water,
blue skies, holidays… The
Perth surfing culture is having your pick of
the car parks, putting on a wetsuit, and paddling out at a beach that
is empty apart from the surfers. Lucky for us,
Perth is generally pretty spectacular in
winter; blue skies, offshore winds, no crowds… and the water and air
aren’t really that cold…
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