Sunday, October 26, 2008

Swell! Huzzah!

Down to Sandtracks this morning. First day of daylight savings so we were up at 9 which was really 8 after going to bed at 11:30 which ended up being the equivalent of 12:30. Less weed today. Yesterday it was sooo thick that you couldn't paddle because you had to displace all the weed. Not a nice sensation. Didn't hang around yesterday. This morning was nice, Richard was out too. About 16 people all up. A lot of them were learners too. You see an older guy and assume he's an old salt, but then he catches a wave and struggles to stand up and you realise he isn't any better than you! Maybe even greener... Had a couple of nice waves today. Caught a few that I kneeled on - freaking that I was gonna nosedive on. Finally got sorted and made the commitment to STAND and had one really nice ride left until the wave dissipated. Short but very nice and flowing. And another too. Tried to paddle onto a big triangle one coming through, but didn't quite catch it. Caught another that I stood up on and started riding, but don't know what happened after that. Very nice wipe out in the seaweed, but not sure whether my balance wasn't right or whatever because one minute I was facing the green wall, the next I was underwater. Still, that was a new experience and not unbearable...slowly slowly getting braver. :D

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