I just found this post which made me smile. It's so great to see or read about other people who have just fallen in love with surfing. I started surfing just over 4 years ago and don't know what took me so long. This quote sums it up:
"Because when it comes down to it, nothing says freedom like paddling out on a board to bob around in the ocean for a while before catching a wave. I reckon that’s about as close to walking on water that I’m ever going to get…and that feeling is priceless. I will chase it til I’m too arthritic to stand on my board, and then I’ll just knee board or paddle til I die."
Kate just got back from a learn to surf camp and sounds like she's hooked. We've all been there and it's the best. The rest of her story is here: