Tuesday, June 21, 2011
I had a day owing to me and took Monday off. I went on the search and, as usually happens, wound up at the first place I checked. It was a lot windier than I'd thought, so the spot out of the wind was where everyone inevitably wound up.
Full moon and a high tide made it super deep and super fat. Found a couple of waves. One of them caught me by surprise as the fat lump of swell I was riding hit the bank and turned into an overhead steamer. All I could think about was the submerged granite rocks somewhere along the shoreline. Only succeeded in catching one other wave after that, but am hoping to go back tonight and check it out on the lower tide.