Saturday, January 3, 2009
Sandtrax turns it on!
Today was amazing! I haven't seen Sandtrax break like this since winter. We only had 2.5m swell at Rottnest, but some of the waves coming through were pretty epic for our sheltered little corner. I did an awesome nosedive today. I think the backwash made the wave kick up early and suddenly I was headed straight down. Surprisingly it was all fine, not even any water up my nose. I thought, 'here we go...' but I was up in no time. I had the pink foam 6'10 for most of today and it did me proud. After catching some of the smaller stuff in closer, which was nice, and turtle rolling under a massive set that broke in pretty close, I caught some slightly bigger ones. Ended up hopping to my knees on a few of them, when they got steeper than I expected, I think. Rich asked my why I was doing that and I said, 'just being a pussy.' So he told me that I needed to stop being a pussy, cos I know I can do it. Then he said that if i get that sorted, I'll be surfing better than him and James, cos I've got really nice style and flow. :* Aww Such a nice thing to say! So I went out the back and I manned up! There was only one other guy out the back, who looked sweet by the way. Surfed with his feet really close together. He would sit so far up the face. The first big one I paddled onto and caught, the drop surprised me so much that I fell off the back. Just a bit bigger drop and a bit faster than what I'm used to. The next one though... I caught it, popped to my feet, went screaming down the face and whizzed along all the way to the beach. As the wave started to reform I got down the front in a bit of a hang 5 to get some more speed. It was amazing! And the boys saw which was brill. Rich was coaching me in which was awes. Said I looked a lot more stable going along the face than straight. So then they were all inspired to get themselves a ride like that one! Surfing is great because you can get so much enjoyment, just from seeing someone else have a great ride. I caught a couple more like that and we surfed til we were too cold and hungry to stay out any longer. We'll be back to it tomorrow, with any luck!