Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Derrs - last minute!

Gear: 7'6 Conditions: Glassy/ NE. <1.5m swell. High tide I had Friday off and Dad said he would join me for a surf. We went to check out Trigg, decided it was shit. Couldn't get excited about it. Both were thinking a cup of coffee instead when Dad suggested we could go to Derrs if the wind was gonna stay light. So we drove home to swap cars to then drive back, past Trigg to Derrs. When we arrived there were 3 people there, one just getting out. Then it was just Dad and I for about an hour til another guy came in just before we left. Nice shape. I caught a head high right!! Lots of lefts and another reaaally nice right that opened out into a nice rideable/cutback-able shoulder. A few extreme dismounts in the shallows today. I also learned the hard way that you can in no way milk these rides. When you see an out, you've got to take it. Had to have your exit strategy ready. I managed to bruise my toes on rocks on one ride. Caught it late and so it broke and the foam jetted me straight at the beach (which was not very far away). Got a bit tumbled on the rocks. They are feeling better now after a few days. I had some good rights today which is great after last session where I was a bit unco and overbalancing. One left was so fast that I had trouble staying attached to my board! I needed to be taking off closer to the peaks today, but wasn't really pushing myself as much. So next time I need to be a 'bit more courageous', as Dad put it :) Such a terrific day!!! The sun was shining...unspoilt beauty basically all to ourselves. So lucky.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Lancelin Girls' Surf Safari

We had a great time up in Lancelin. Kristy and I headed up Friday arvo, arriving around 3:30. The accommodation was so dodgy but added to the flavour of the weekend. We made burritos for the girls - who arrived around 7pm - without any taco seasoning. Somehow that didn't make the journey from our shopping basket to our plastic bag!
Sleeping Friday night was a challenge as the tavern - next to our room - closed at midnight, spewing forth all the bogans in Lancelin and all of the bikies that had evidently booked the room next to ours. They were yelling and swearing and revving their cars until about 3am.
Saturday morning the 'light offshore' breeze that was forecast was more of a moderate offshore breeze, ruffling the palm trees and blowing huge streams off the waves. Packed up and convoy to the beach. The waves out the back were pretty impressive! Nice shape, most about head high and pretty hollow. We weren't quite ready for that. Unfortunately the shallower water didn't offer much of an alternative. We struggled to find some reforms and I resorted to taking some photos.
After a quick relocation to a spot further down the beach we had a bit more luck and some fun rides. Brunch was a fabulous affair - bbq brekkie in the park. The esky and the beers came with us and it was well earned!
After a nap in the arvo we headed back down the beach for an arvo session. The swell had dropped but the combination of onshore wind and incoming tide made it pretty difficult to sit anywhere useful. After an hour or so paddling through the 'minestrone' we went back for showers and some girl time before heading out to dinner.
No girls weekend would be complete without a late night car ride in search of sweets. We finished dinner at the ripe old time of 8pm. By then all the shops were closed and the only dessert option open to us was an ice cream from the pizza shop. I manage to not get us killed on the trip back along the street to Casa del Femme. Some late night hilarity followed by a restful night sans bikies...
Sunday morning was a totally different story. We were a bit slow getting up after a few drinks and a long day, but managed to pack ourselves and everything else in our cars before heading to the beach. Glassy, still, fabulous peaks out the back and the swell had dropped. Heaven. We got out the back and stayed there. I caught some of the biggest waves I've ridden. Out next to the boys. I found that we had a bit of trouble catching them so we moved to a different peak - let the guys have this one to themselves. I got a few nice rides and some cool drops. Nat managed to get herself some big waves out the back and also had a go on my board.
This was a morning I didn't want to end. Unfortunately the wind came in gradually as did the tide and it was time to go. Lunch at the bakery before making the trek back to Perth.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Shaping up

We head to Gnaraloo in about 5 weeks! Were trying to up our fitness a bit before we go and have been swimming a couple of times a week. I'm dubious as to whether the fitness benefits are higher than the chlorine poisoning we get from the experience. We went to Derrs on Saturday arvo and it was magic. Only the three of us. No one else to be seen. The sun was shining. The swell was small, but plenty big enough for James and I. We managed to catch heaps more waves than we have here in the past. Managed some rollercoasting along a left and got my rights sorted out eventually, when I started bending my knees again!! The drops were pretty exciting. Great day!!

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Surf Beach Photos!

Jo took some pictures when we were down last weekend and here are some of the better shots. I thought they'd all be average - we now have a million pics of ourselves riding ankle high foam - it is so great to have some shots riding on the face AND some waves that allow us to do as such. frontside!! Nice size, this one. (above)


High five!

One of my faves. (Below)
A very happy girl - Striking a pose.



Angling right.