I had heaps of fun, but would have liked to have taken a few more big ones. The line up was so crowded, I didnt want to hassle or be in the way. It was just too hard to try and take off with 6 people sitting in front of you...One of the bigger waves I paddled onto, in between crowded moments.
I really need to commit! It doesn't look that scary from here and standing would have been fine.So. I haven't quite sussed the longboard. Seemed to nosedive before I could stand, no matter what I was doing. So next time I take it out I'm gonna get right back. Ppl out there seemed to have their feet right on the tail. So we'll see. I also think I need to paddle harder. Maybe not all the time, but there are waves where I guess I was in the pocket, but didn't catch the wave fast enough, so it overtook me.
Too slow...Generally, it was difficult to get on the face, but then I also think that was the conditions. I'm happy with the size of some of the 'close-out' stuff that I've still managed to make.Nice size, just not the shape. So good and crumbly though. Never thought I'd be saying I want something more hollow. Should I be paddling on more of an angle? I'm happy with some of these shots, seeing how I'm positioning myself and leaning, I think, is really good. Packed line-up Going right :)
I'd love to get some feedback from someone who knows what they're doing re stand up. This all seems a bit anal, and next time I go out, I just plan to have fun and be in the moment. But a bit of reflection so I can see what to work on has been good too. Aloha.